Where to stay in South West Rocks
A bigger, livelier cousin to the quiet villages nearby, with a calm town beach, a historic gaol on the headland, turquoise bays and some of the best diving in the country. Here's where to stay in South West Rocks, and what to do when you arrive.
- Best time to visit
- September to May for swimming and diving. June to November for whales and quieter days. Summer, Easter and the school holidays are the busy season, so book well ahead.
- Getting there
- About a 5 hour drive north of Sydney. Leave the M1 or Pacific Highway at Kempsey, then 30 minutes east. The nearest airport is Port Macquarie, about an hour south.
- Location
- Mid North Coast, NSW · View on map
Why go
- Horseshoe Bay, a protected swimming beach right in the middle of town
- Historic Trial Bay Gaol on the headland at Arakoon, with kangaroos on the grass
- Little Bay's sheltered turquoise water, good for a swim or a snorkel
- Smoky Cape Lighthouse and some of the best whale watching on the coast
- World-class diving at Fish Rock, an ocean cave with grey nurse sharks
- Calm Back Creek and the Macleay River for kayaking, fishing and oysters
South West Rocks sits at the mouth of the Macleay River, where the Mid North Coast opens out into a run of blue bays and long beaches. It is bigger and busier than the villages to the south, with a proper town centre, but it has kept the easy, salt-and-sunscreen feel of a classic Australian beach holiday. The headland at Arakoon, the old gaol, the calm water of Horseshoe Bay and some of the best diving in the country are all a few minutes apart.
Why stay in South West Rocks
There is more going on here than in the smaller towns nearby, which makes it a good base if you want beaches with a bit of life around them: cafes, a bakery, pubs and a country club, plus a real swimming beach in the middle of town. Families come back year after year, so it gets busy over summer and the school holidays and you will want to book ahead. Out of peak season it is calm and uncrowded, and the water is often at its clearest.
Horseshoe Bay and the beaches
Horseshoe Bay is the town’s drawcard: a small, protected, horseshoe-shaped beach tucked behind the breakwall, right in the centre of town. The headland and the wall keep it calm, so it is one of the safest spots on the coast for a swim with young kids. For surf and space, Front Beach and Main Beach run to the north, and Trial Bay stretches for kilometres out past Arakoon. Gap Beach, to the south, is wilder and quieter again.
Trial Bay Gaol and Little Bay
On the headland at Arakoon, a few minutes east of town, the sandstone ruins of Trial Bay Gaol stand above the water. Built in the 1880s and later used as a wartime internment camp, it is now a museum inside Arakoon National Park. The grounds are some of the best in the region for a picnic, with eastern grey kangaroos grazing on the grass at dusk. Just below, Little Bay is a sheltered pocket of turquoise water that is lovely for a swim or a snorkel.
Smoky Cape and whale watching
South of town, Smoky Cape Lighthouse stands on a high headland in Hat Head National Park. The drive up is worth it for the view alone, and from late autumn into spring it is one of the best places on the coast to watch humpback whales pass close to shore.
On the water
South West Rocks is a fishing and boating town at heart. The Macleay River and the calm Back Creek are made for kayaking, throwing in a line and pulling up a feed. Offshore, Fish Rock is a famous dive: an ocean cave off Smoky Cape where you can dive with grey nurse sharks, which draws divers from all over the world.
Things to do
- Swim the calm water at Horseshoe Bay
- Explore the ruins and grounds of Trial Bay Gaol
- Watch for kangaroos on the grass at Arakoon at dusk
- Snorkel the sheltered turquoise of Little Bay
- Drive up to Smoky Cape Lighthouse for the view and the whales
- Kayak or fish the Macleay River and Back Creek
- Dive Fish Rock with the grey nurse sharks
- Walk the coastal boardwalk and the headland tracks
Getting there
South West Rocks is about a five hour drive north of Sydney (around 450 km). Leave the Pacific Highway or M1 at Kempsey, then it is a 30 minute drive east to the coast. The nearest airport is Port Macquarie, about an hour south, with Coffs Harbour roughly 90 minutes north. The closest train station is Kempsey on the regional XPT line.
Good to know
South West Rocks has more services than the smaller towns nearby, including a supermarket, bakery, cafes, pubs and a country club, so you can stock up in town. It is a popular family spot, so summer and the school holidays are busy and accommodation books out early. The rest of the year is quieter.
Local tip: time a visit to Trial Bay Gaol for late afternoon, when the light is good and the kangaroos come out on the grass.
The best places to stay in South West Rocks
Our pick of the best places to base yourself, from beachfront cabins to quiet bush retreats. Hand-chosen for location, character and value.
Horseshoe Bay apartment
Right on the foreshore at Horseshoe Bay, the calm swimming beach in the middle of town. Walk to the sand, the cafes and the pub.
Beachfront holiday house
A short walk to Front Beach and Horseshoe Bay, with room for the whole crew and a deck for the long afternoons.
Horseshoe Bay Holiday Park
Cabins and powered sites a stroll from the beach and the foreshore reserve. The classic South West Rocks family base.
Arakoon hideaway
Out at Arakoon near the gaol and Little Bay, where kangaroos graze at dusk and the turquoise water is just down the hill.
Family holiday house
Space to spread out, close to the beach, the boardwalk and the river. Bikes, buckets and long lazy days.
Back Creek riverside retreat
On the quiet creek side, for kayaking from the back garden, throwing in a line and watching the pelicans.
Pet-friendly cottage
Bring the dog and find a quiet base near the beaches, with room to roam (check the current dog rules first).
Live prices and booking links are coming soon. In the meantime, use the photos and notes above to find your perfect base in South West Rocks.
South West Rocks in photos
Every photo on this page was taken in and around South West Rocks.
